A Nice Shop

One of the many books I have on Lisbon and on Baixa is called "Old Lisbon Shops", which is a reference book on old shops in the city center (I bought it second hand the other day for 5 euros :-) ). One of the shops mentioned there, and which I have meant to write about for some time, is Perfumaria Alceste, and old time perfumer.

The reason I like it is not because it is simply old, but because perfumes are made and combined there, we can have one tailored to ourselves! It is quite an experience to go through so many different scents, trying to figure out what combines best with what, and for what time of the year ... of course the lady working there knows of the business and makes her (good) suggestions.

Perfumes are sold in containers of various sizes, prices range from few euros up, which makes them much cheaper than brand products sold throughout the world. Make Perfumaria Alceste a visit, it is worth it! Who knows you find there presents for the whole family :-)

Just another thing ... the book I have still locates the shop at Rua da Prata 173, but it is now located at Rua da Conçeição 185, the street crossing Baixa with tramline 28.

Another Nice Terrace View Over the Tagus

Right above Baixa, on the slope of Castelo hill, there is a fruit market called "Mercado do Chão do Loureiro". The top of the terrace was open to public, and 3 or 4 years ago someone had the brilliant idea of openning a bar there. I call it "brilliant", because even if it looks so obvious now, the spot was there, unused for years, even with so much potential.

Anyway, there are now rows of lounge chairs installed along the terrace rails, overlooking the city ... it is the perfect spot where to relax at the end of a hard walking day, watching the city, the river, the sun going down behind the city hills. Try not to miss it, it gets you addicted. :-)

There is a blog with more (nice) pictures of the terrace, which can be accessed here. Google Maps also has a link to it, which you can access here.

Brunch!

" i " is a new Portuguese Newspaper with a cool style of writing, which has been gaining me as a regular reader. I was reading through it's online edition, when I spotted an article on places where to have a decent brunch (mid term meal between breakfast and lunch) in Lisbon, and in Porto.

The list includes "Pois Café", one of Alfama's trendy spots, which is introduced the following way: "read the day's papers sitting on an austrian couch, in a place where you can find scrambled eggs, salads and chesse & ham plates", prices are refered to range from 5,50 to 11 euros.

The suggestion which made my mouth water was "Estrela da Bica", at Bica, described as "the true English brunch, with orange juice, coffee or tea, eggs with sausage, bacon, tomatoes and mushrooms" :-) now, tell me this doen't open up your apetite :-) medium prices range around 6,70 euros.

The article with the complete references can be found here.

A New Praça do Comércio

This is a picture of the approved (?) project for the new Praça do Comércio. As recent visitors to the city certainly know, the area down there is a giant building site, a reinforcement of the structure of one of the towers is taking place, at the same time sewage pipes are being deviated from the river. Both works are supposed to be concluded this month of June.

What now comes to light are more news of more building (will it ever end? ...), this time the redesign of the square. Of course it's structure is to be maintained, what changes is the traffic restricted areas - there will be only one traffic lane on each side, supposedly releasing more room for pedestrians.

Having no clue of what the semi-closedown will mean to traffic in the city center, I subscribe other critics I have read to the project: it is a pitty the opportunity is not used to plant some trees around the square, and that portuguese cobblestone pavement is not introduced to it. In fact, when Summer comes, standing out there in the sun in impossible, and cobblestone-paved sidewalks are so much nicer!

Titanic Artifacts

There is an exhibition being held at the top floor of Rossio's train station called "Titanic, The Artifact Exhibition". As the name of the exhibition clearly suggests, it is dedicated to the great Titanic, and objects rescued from the sunken cruise liner are at display. My first reaction was "I want to see that!".

Looking closer into it, the artifacts displayed are quite a few, of a various nature, there is even a real size reproduction of what were passenger compartments on the ship. There are also clothes and other personal belongings of passengers, items from the ships apparell, and from the ship itself.

But then comes what makes me hesitate in going to see the exhibition: tickets cost 14,50 euros on weekends and 12,50 euros on weekdays. It is a bit expensive, yes! Specially considering normal prices of museum tickets, in Portugal :-(

Anyway, the exhibition will be on for some months, there is time for me to decide whether to go there, or not. In the meantime, I can always watch the films available at the exhibition web site, which you can access here. :-)

A Day Out

For guests who stay a bit longer at the apartment, and who ask me about other things to see besides Lisbon, I usually recommend one day out in Porto, or "Oporto", as said in English. Porto is Portugal's second largest city, known among us as the "capital do Norte", and is the home of the famous Port wine. The city itself is quite different from Lisboa, as the the Tejo and the Douro are different, too. While Lisbon spreads lazily out along the Tejo, Porto is a clutch of houses perched over the Douro. While Lisbon is bright and shiny, Porto is dark, cold (try ot out in Winter! :-) ). Both cities have their own kind of unique beauty.

Looking it up in the map, the 320 kms separating both cities seem quite a distance, but in reality are not. The Alfa trains cover the distance in just under three hours, and leave regularly from Santa Apolónia station, just 10 minutes walking from home. Catching the 8:00 train, for instance, would put you there before 11:00, but trains start leaving at 6:00, plenty to choose from.

Prices range from 19,50 euros (for Intercidades trains, trips taking 15 min more) to 27,50 euros (for Alfa trains), each way. Prices and timetables can be checked at CP, the Portuguese train company, access it's website here. For some suggestions on what to do and see, ask me, I have my own routines up there, and quite enjoy the city :-)

One of the nicest views over the Tejo

( Image credits ACISJF's blog at Blogspot)

I have been meaning to write about ACISJF's self-service restaurant in Chiado for a while, but it was hard to find a picture with the view! Now that I found one, here it goes :-)

ACISJF is a Christian organisation, which runs a self service restaurant (it is more like a canteen, actually), as a way of extra source of income. It is located on the last floors of a building in Chiado, and the view of the terrace over the river it is fantastic! We can sit outside, enjoying the view and the river, quietly chatting and watching the birds skipping from table to table, looking for an easy meal of lost crumbs.

ACISJF's canteen is only open for lunch, only during week days, and is located at Travessa do Ferragial, 1 (just enter the open door and take the stairs going up to the last floors).